I am in the process of writing & editing this journal & then plan to add photos of our trip.
This was a 3 week guided trip taken with Blackfeather in 2001 from July 14 -Aug 3.
This journal is divided into the 3 segments of the trip:
1. Moose Ponds to Rabbitkettle
2. Rabbitkettle to Victoria Falls
3. Victoria Falls to Lindberg’s Landing.
- Moose Ponds – Rabbitkettle
Day 1 – Aug 14
Position: 62°55.143 N, 129°40.423 W
Elevation: 1092 M
We were supposed to fly out of fort Simpson, NWT July 13 to Moose Ponds, the headwaters of the Nahanni, but schedules had to be changed because of weather. The first 6 paddlers left at 5 p.m., the plane returned but couldn’t take the other 6 because the valley was completely fogged in. So the rest of us slept at the outfitters in Fort Simpson. Finally, the next morning at 10 a.m. we were given the go-ahead & in we, 3 canoes & a heap of gear piled.
We flew in a Twin Otter & it was really fun. For about 3/4 hour all we could see was clouds, but thenit cleared (although still overcast) so we could see. The mountains are phenomenal – mostly above treeline & we could see a number of braided rivers, many fast creeks coming from the mountains & a large number of beautifully coloured lakes/ponds that reminded me of the thermal springs & ponds at Yellowstone……turquoises, blues, coppers, browns, whites (edges).
Finally we arrived, set up tents & had lunch. We then had a practice session to review strokes etc.,then a dinner…..& it rained. Judging by tonight’s dinner Blackfeather makes a huge effort food-wise….even wine!
People on this trip are:
Andrew Chapman (leader)
Adam Smith (assistant leader)
Lisa (Wendy Grater’s daughter)
Lou, Paul, George & Joe – 4 Newfie friends
Wendy Gilbert
Joyce & Bob – couple
Victor, friend of Joyce & Bob
me
Tomorrow we start down the river! I’m excited & nervous.
Day 2 – July 15Position – 62°46.6’N, 129°27.221′ W
Elevation: 1023m ->1014m; vertical 19m
Distance: 38km approx
My paddling partner for the whole trip was Wendy, who was an excellent paddler.
We started about 10:10 this morning practising ferrying & departed around 10:30. We irst paddled through the Moose Ponds which took about 2 1/2 hoursl Amazingly, there was a strong current almost right away & it never let up.
At lunch we stopped & put on sprayskirts. It was almost continuous rapids but included in there was Initiation Raids & Thread the Needle Rapids, This was somewhat scary with MANY boulders & many BIG waves. We went through the last part backwards & half full of water.
We are covering a lot of ground very fast!! We have not ben scouting anything…nobody has actually dumped yet, but we have been submerged in large waves.
Our campsite tonight (#2) is a large gravel spit where the river is divided – lots of room for many tents.
Day 3 – Mon July 16
Position: 62° 37.814′ N, 129°0.344W
Elevation: 820m
Drop in 1 day = 205m = 650′.
We started again around 10 a.m. this morning & it was blur of rapids! What was marked wasn’t as difficult as supposedly t was rated & tons of rapids were extremely difficult that weren’t necessarily even marked. Adam thinks that this water brings some of these rapids to the limit of navigability. Giant standing waves, giant holes & giant boulders were everywhere! I was scared through much of today’s paddle…..but was proud to have successfully gotten through. Amazingly nobody dumped anywhere!
Tonight we all sat in a circle chatting for a few hours…..until we all started yawning….sun hadn’t set yet – it set at about 15 minutes past midnight.
We are now finished the “Rock Gardens” section of the river.
Day 4 – Tues July 17
Position: 62°20.703′ N, 128° 12.941′ W
Elevation: 703m
Drop in 1 day = 117m = 360′
Gorgeous day!! Weather was sunny most of the day & we “lily-dipped” the day away. Apparently it usually takes a week to get through the Rock Gardens – neither of our guides had ever actually run this section before & both were anxious to get through it – thus the no scouting & enormous drops per day. So we have lots of basking time.
The river current is unbelievable! One of the guys clocked it at 12 kph! So with very little effort we covered a ton of miles – we made it almost to Moore’s Hot Springs.
We are camped at a large spit (delta?) of rocks & sand & tomorrow we’re planning to hike up the creek for a while. Across the river are high bluffs of trees & gravel. Erosion is happening as I sit here – it sounds like rain or hail but it is gravel & rocks every few minutes….it falls directly into the river.
Day 5 – Wed July 18
Position: 62°22.493′ N, 127°47.816′ W
Elevation: 654m
Drop: 49m = 154′
Distance: 21.9km
Today was again beautiful for the most part. eiht of us decided to hike up the mountain behind us so we crossed the creek (via log that George & Lew put there)
We hiked through dense deep moss & tangled underbrush – the Newfies thought it was great, wide-open terrain! I was very slow so part way back decided to go back so as not to hold everybody up. Joe came too, which was very kind of him. The rest continued on & up & we decided to first find the waterfall on the creek. It was well worth the effort…it was a spectacular canyon & waterfall.
Finally we all re-grouped & started down the river. The first stop was Moore’s Cabin & then we tried to find the Hot Springs but after 4-5 stops gave up.\We then headed down to try & put on mileage & after a while came to Elbow Rapids – enjoyable standing waves & canyon wall avoidance. Finally we stopped at a gravel bar (around 6:30 p.m. for the night.
The mountains are becoming ever more beautiful & rugged! I LOVE them!
Day 6 – Thurs July 19
Position: 61°58.574N, 127°14.283 W
Elevation: 607m
Drop: 47m = 150′
Distance: 53.1km
Today started absolutely clear & bea\utiful – & hot. Hardly what you would expect in the NWT!
We left around 9:40 this morning as we had a lot of miles to put in. We paddled quite a while getting gorgeous views of the Ragged Range, Cirque of the Unclimbables & Mt. Ida??? with glaciers & many other beautiful mountains. We spent a lot of time rafted together floating down the river & were entertained by some very funny songs by Adam & Wendy.
Finally we made camp where a very clear creek flowed in – on a big gravel bar. The river is starting to be braided – which you can also see on the map.
…..almost forgot…in the morning a bear must have smelled our bacon, came out of the woods & ferried (swam) across the river. He had a bit of trouble getting out but finally scrambled up. He was probably a young grizzly – judging by his colour but I didn’t look carefully enough to see if he had a hump. He was a light brownish colour, mottled – I managed to get a movie of him.
Tonight we went to bed early so as to get an early start in the morning. At the far end of our campsite (could barely see) were a couple of Germans with kayaks sharing our site.
Day 7 – Fri July 20, Waypoint #9 on map
Position: 61°57.271 N, 127°9.07 W
Elevation: 598m
Drop: 9m
Distance: 5.16km
We got up bright & early & got away about 8:40 a.m., a record for us. We only paddled a couple of kilometres & then pulled in for a hike to the Rabbit Kettle Tufa Mounds.
Sharon Weaver (& her fiance) who was the Park Warden led us on a very hot hike to the mounds. We passed a beautiful jade green lake with 5 ducks on it & then ferried across the river -Sharon pulling the boat hand over hand to cross Rabbitkettle river. Adam, Andrew & Wendy also tried the ferrying routine – Andrew was pretty good!
We walked up the largest mound barefoot on the side that had water drizzling over it because it is still developing & hopefully will continue to build & not show damage…..they are monitoring it.
After getting back, we all swam in rabbitkettle Lake which was surprisingly warm (68-69°F), It felt wonderful because we were so hot. We then waited until a plane came in with Victor’s wife, Shelley, & Lisa left at that point.
Finally we left & paddled a couple of more km to a giant gravel bar where we stopped about 5:30-6:00 p.m. It was extremely hot all day (well over 30°C) & we all felt drained from sun & heat.
Shelley brought truffles with her….a huge treat!
Go to 2. Rabbitkettle-Victoria Falls section