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Harricanaw Trip 2000
This was a 12 day guided trip through Wanapitei.
Journal
Day 1 – Aug 12
At 10:00 a.m. The whole group met at the train station in Cochrane & we then drove in a Wanapitei van about 5 1/2 hours, mostly on logging roads to the put-in. We drove as far as St. Lambert (shortly after the Ontario/Quebec border); there we took our last break & had ice cream .
We continued on # 393 North through Beaucanton and Val Paradis. After a long drive on a dirt road we finally drove over the Harricanaw bridge (the last bridge on the Harricanaw) to a large parking lot on the right side of the river. The put-in is just below some rapids on this last bridge.
My partner, Laco Kovac, & I decided to alternate bow & stern every day so that we would both gain experience in whitewater in both positions. This worked out very well.
We paddled about 10 km – shores were reedy, mucky & marshy pretty well the whole way & the water was pretty high so what an earlier group had called “Club Med” became “Club Mud” – a mucky beach where we ended up camping.
The people on the trip are all very pleasant – we are 12 – there would have been 13, but Shelly’s husband suddenly took sick & couldn’t make it.
Trip members
Shelly, Mitch & Chad (Bigfoot) Armstrong – 1 family
Sue & Wingnut (nickname) – from England – friends of Andrew
Andrew White (Chalky) – co-owner of Wanapitei & participant on this trip
Jody Mitchell (assistant leader) & Jen Deck (Choke, also trip leader)
Laco ) Kovac– my paddling partner
Eric (Big E) & Mike (Sweating Bull) Fiander – father & son from Nova Scotia
Marilyn Sprissler (Rocky)
Day 2 – Aug 13
Distance paddled – about 20 km.
We passed 2 rapids.
The first rapid was a big ledge with a lot of tricky stuff – we didn’t do it – scout from River Left. Ledge is on RR but on the other side there are nice rocks – could camp there. We lifted canoes over & then ran the rest of the rapid. It was great fun – no rocks, a lot of waves & FAST. We then eddied out RR & then continued on down.
The second set of rapids – we scouted RL – we then pulled out high & took the tongue on the left & went left side through the waves. Great fun!!
At the confluence of the Turgeon & Harricanaw, we camped on an extremely stony site. Another possible campsite would be the rocky islands.
Day 3 – Aug 14
Distance paddled – about 16 km.
We paddled through several sets of rapids, Class 1 & 2:
1. Rapides Pawitigojie
2. Rapides Opwagan – had lunch here – WONDERFULLY high rocks & viewpoint AND you CAN SWIM the rapids!!
3. Rapides Kit Ogidateiwan
– more water here, standing waves
– Class 2
There is a beautiful campsite midway through Rapid 3 on the tip (north end) of Ile d’un Mille (One Mile Island)
– there are a lot of rocks & great view of rapids
Day 4 – Aug 15
– approx 30 km. – fast current, especially in the afternoon helped to get this much mileage
1. There were lots of rapids to get around Ile d’un Mille
2. When we left the campsite we first ran a few 1-2 rapids, then pulled over & lined the canoes (empty) through a narrow chute. I didn’t think the canoes would make it but they did (there was a large rock on river left of the chute)
3. We then ran a few more rapids, then a major drop & a GORGEOUS lunch spot on high rocks. The drop was about 5′. We managed to line the canoes down in 2 sections. The river is quite wide here & we were on RR (but not the right-most)
4. After leaving Ile d’un Mille, there were some calm areas with current but mostly extremely fast & lot of big rocks & rock gardens. A squall came up in mid afternoon so we very quickly took shelter on the shore -very uncomfortably, in some big boulders, but definitely safer. A tarp was quickly put over us – we were huddled among some sharp boulders.
The scenery is changing a bit – shores are a little higher & have these sand-slide type areas frequently. After this stop we paddled pretty well non-stop Gr 1-2 so we really had to pay attention. At the tail end we did a few tricky manoeuvres successfully so were proud of ourselves.
5. Our campsite tonight was beautiful – lots of flat rocks & great views of the river… However, this perfection was marred by thunderstorms pretty well all night. Our campsite for Night 4 was a little more than 2/3 of the way to Ile de 7 Milles (Seven Mile island).
Day 5 – Aug 16
4 km travelled!! A record low!
Very windy, rainy & cold
We started off in the rain this morning, did a few rapids & then hit “flat” water. That is the most non-descriptive word in canoeing! The wind funnelled south so strong that even though we were in a strong current heading north we had to fight for every inch. Finally, we gave up the struggle, went to shore & proceeded to line our canoes DOWN the river WITH the current….pulling as hard as we could. I think that’s the strongest wind I’ve ever encountered canoeing!
Finally, we ‘wind-ferried’ across the river & fought to get to a big rocky outcrop on the other side – it is gorgeous & huge campsite. The only trouble was that it was so windy that we couldn’t pitch our tents there….so we all camped at the trees so that we wouldn’t blow away with our tents. So at about 1 pm we stopped paddling & set up camp & had lunch.
It’s also quite cold.
Day 6 – Aug 17
– approx 11 km travelled
sunny, clear blue skies, windy & cold (5 degrees in a.m.)
Today was a gorgeous day with clear blue skies. We hit a ton of rapids today – first up was an R3-R4 which was pretty big…so we portaged it. We then ran almost continuous rapids R2’s & then R3’s which were pretty big. We shipped a lot of water since we hit some big standing waves (no spray skirts) I was in the bow at this time & they were hitting me in the face.
After this bit of excitement we had lunch – again on beautiful high rocks. I was frozen because I was soaked, the wind was strong & temperature was cold. (I forgot to mention, it was about 5 degrees C this a.m.)
We then ran many R2’s almost continuously & soon came to a falls which we portaged around on RR (canoes loaded, many people to a canoe). It was a spectacular falls, not that high but spread over a long, almost river-wide rock slab of about 10′ in elevation. BEAUTIFUL!!
We then carried on till we hit more rapids (also continuous) until we arrived at Falls #2. We then carried the canoes (fully loaded again) across the most humongous flat rock imagineable! It was almost river-wide!!…like 10 football fields. We then approached Falls #3 which turned out to be in sections which were lineable….first a narrow canoe-wide chute, then gentler slopes…then a bit of eddy-hopping…& then found a good place to land.
So now we are on an island, with a canyon on one side (GORGEOUS) & flattish rocks as far as we can see in almost all directions, interspersed with the water.
GREAT DAY!!!
Day 7 – Aug 18
3-4 km
Weather – rain & drizzle all day & all night
Today was an exhausting day! We did at least 5 portages (named P1 – P5). First thing in the morning (9 a.m. start) we crossed over the strong current coming out of the canyon & started our longest portage (P1) of the trip (600 m) ….which is quite a lot because it was very rugged scrambling over huge rocks. At one point on the portage we had to climb and pass our canoes & packs to someone above and then at another point jump over a crevasse (with our loads).
We then headed right over some to shallow rocks (too far right), got ourselves pushed out & took off through some R1’s & R2’s. Following this was a relatively short portage which was not too difficult. (P2) Next up was another portage on RR (P3)- a very difficult one. It started with a cairn marking the portage on a rocky hill & got worse – was about 200-300 m. Before & after all portages was a lot of whitewater – R1, R2 & R3’s. We managed to go through the biggest waves on the river & do quite a good job of filling our canoe!
We also managed to do some good maneuvering along with some klutzy maneuvering.
P4 – another difficult portage…can’t remember the details but all portages today were difficult.
P5 !! This was probably the hardest portage I have ever done! It was raining & slippery & the portage was extremely jagged & up & down. Everybody was exhausted. And tonight everybody will be going to bed early.
Our campsite tonight is yet again beautiful. We are at another gorgeous series of waterfalls with an island in front of us. We are partway along Seven Mile Island. tomorrow we will finish the rest of it. this campsite has spectacular scenery & we are o the rocks but it is a bit harder to find campsites as it’s more of a hill. Also, there is a huge noise from the falls.
Day 8 – Aug 19
7 km approx
Rainy, cloudy windy – REALLY WINDY. Winter is on its way already in the north.
– I woke up in the morning with the bottom 2 feet of my sleeping bag soaking wet….need a new & better tent!
Today we dumped! We got stuck between 2 rocks – probably because we approached at too high of an angle & couldn’t swing to get parallel to the current. I knew we were going over before it actually happened. It wasn’t even a very difficult rapid – R2 – but we went over just before an R5!
This morning started off at our campsite with a portage to the water & then had mostly rapids after that.
This was followed by swifts, an R2, an R1 & an R3, which was simultaneously scary & exciting, then an R2 followed by a long lining to get around an R5 (shelves etc.). After lining the boats half the way, we carried them fully loaded the remainder of the distance.
Next up was a large rock garden with giant boulders at the end (R3) – we ran this too. Finally we arrived at our campsite at another R3, which has a huge chute. It looks like a giant slide! We’re going to try & run it with empty canoes in the morning.
We are again camped at a beautiful huge, flat-rock type campsite.
Day 9 – Aug 20
32 km.
Freezing cold in a.m., became sunny, hot & breezy in afternoon
Morning was freezing so we hurried to get ready to go. But FIRST, we all ran the chute. I was nervous, but we planned our route carefully, bumped on a few rocks, but had a pretty good line.
We then proceeded to run almost constant R1’s & R2’s until we finally got to the end of Seven Mile Island.
By this time we were following Jen (in 2nd position) because the original 2nd canoe as caught in some shallow water. No other major rapids were listed in Jen’s maps so we were unsuspecting of what was to come. Jen headed to RR – big mistake – so she waved frantically & headed over to RL & THERE was a BIG ledge. We tried to follow Jen but were too close to the ledge so we were almost broadside to it. Well, this did it! We flipped over & I lost sight of Laco & proceeded to float downstream & eventually made it over to RL, which was quite far away. The river at this point was over a kilometer wide. Our bags floated a long ways down the river but, happy to say, we found them all – I had lashed them together. The only thing we never recovered was our spare paddle.
As soon as we started again downriver we were somewhat cold. Soon we stopped for lunch & started to dry .
After lunch the sun was fully out & the day was gorgeous – absolutely clear sky – hot & breezy. We kept going & I don’t think there were any flatwater areas – almost continuous whitewater. so much for Jen’s marked-up map!!
OH! A bear swam out in front of us…I think we scared him half to death. He was swimming right across the river, which was very wide at that point. The bear swam as fast as he could & then dashed up on the shore, looked back at us, huffed & puffed really loudly & then dashed off up into the woods.
The scenery by this time had changed considerably – from enormous flat rocks to hills of gravel & gravel shores. Also, we’re starting to see gravel islands in the middle of the river & everything seems lower.
After seeing the bear, we encountered almost continuous swifts & R1′ s for miles & miles – we didn’t stop till 6 pm. & we’re all EXHAUSTED!!
Day 10 – Aug 21
31.5 km approx.
Totally clear weather, 2-3 degrees in morning
Landscape continued along the same veins – birch, pine, sand/gravel falling down to the shores..now lots of gravel shoals & very shallow water – impossible not to hit bottom here & there….at most R1’s. A day of coasting along.
Day 11 – Aug 22 – Hanna Bay Goose Camp
12 km
Clear & sunny, wind at our backs
Unfortunately today was our last paddling day. It was only a short distance to the Hanna Bay Goose Camp where the plane is coming to pick us up. We scarcely needed to paddle today, mostly floated barge-style (rafted together) with the current & wind at our backs.
While paddling we saw some bald eagles!! One flew right by our canoe when we were way behind the other canoes & just soared & soared. He was beautiful. We also saw a pair of them higher.
Canada geese are also starting to gather to go south. We noticed a lot of small flocks starting to collect & move.
The approach to Hannah Bay Goose Camp is tidal & we arrived on an ebb tide – when we got out of our canoes we had to slip & slide on very slippery, sucky muck to get to solid shore. Had we arrived an hour or 2 later, there was no water at all, just muck as far as we could see. It would have been impossible to reach the camp!
Hannah Bay Goose Camp is very ugly. It was & is a Cree hunting camp & now it is under construction. The Cree Indians are building a beautiful lodge of logs, an Ecolodge, but it is unfinished so we are staying in it….besides there’s nowhere close to stay – the construction site is a holy mess. So we pitched our tents inside.
The Ecolodge, when seen from the air is the shape of a bird.
Tomorrow we will be flown out in 4 trips – Laco, Jenn & I are on the 3rd trip out so if all is on time around 11 a.m. we’ll be on our way to Moosonee.
ADDENDUM to our day
Just as I thought the day was finished, 4 of us were standing & watching the incoming tide when Laco thought he heard a motor – turned out he was right. Eventually a float plane circled & landed right in front of us – it was Shelly’s husband & father!! Her husband stayed & had brought with him 2 bottles of champagne!! Quite a treat for everyone. So now we’re going to have a final sing-song with Eric singing & playing guitar.
Day 12 – Aug 23 – Our last day
Our last day & what a day it was!!
First we all had to be flown from Hannah Bay Goose Camp to Moosonee. Wingnut wanted to go fishing with 2 Cree Indians who had stayed in a new cabin behind the main lodge, so we traded flying positions with him & Sue. So Laco, Chalky & I flew out first. It was a pretty interesting flight – the muskeg & bog go on & on & on & you could see how fr the tidal mud flts go out. You would definitely not want to be stranded anywhere out there! I think it would be impossible to reach Moosonee.
Once we landed we met Shelley’s dad & Chad. We hiked into town (2 hot dusty miles) & then up to the train station to phone home. Then we wandered around Moosonee & eventually had lunch. Later we took a boat with Shelley’s family to Moose Factory. It was vry hot but we hiked & hiked. Eventualy Shelley & her husband & dad decided to go back – we continued on & went to the Cree Cultural Centre which was quite interesting. Laco knew the fellow running it because he was here in the winter for a “Ski With the Cree” trip.
Eventually we all gathered at the train station where Andrew managed to get us the Smoking Car for ourselves & remove the smoking signs. Everybody except Laco, Shelley’s family & myself loaded up with booze. So we ate, sang, played cards, talked laughed, joked & had a fantastic time.
We also had the amazing good luc to be on the same train as Laurence Martin (Wapistan) who ended up playing guitar & singing for us for hours. WONDERFUL!!!!! (I later tried to get hold of his CD’s but was unsuccessful).
Finally, about 4 hours late we arrived in Cochrane. All the hotels were full so we camed in a local campground.
GREAT TRIP!!